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Making Black Bread (Pumpernickel) 27 Aug 2013 | 12:32 am
Here's how I like to eat a real pumpernickel: with lox, cream cheese and capers. Why? Because this moist, ultra-dense bread calls out for accompaniment. Smoked fish and cheese. A nice slice of pork fa...
Consummate evil? Or teenagers. 26 Aug 2013 | 07:06 am
As several readers have reminded me, ergot has caused plenty of trouble right here in the good ol' US of A. European immigrants never traveled anywhere without the comforts of home, and rye was one of...
What about pastrami sandwiches? 23 Aug 2013 | 06:05 pm
Reader Alison asks if there's much risk from ergot-infected rye today. The answer is not really. Though no ergot-resistant strain of rye has ever been developed, a variety of measures are taken these ...
Holy Fire 23 Aug 2013 | 05:55 pm
…is what gangrenous ergotism was called when it first appeared in Europe in the ninth century. “Fire” of course because of the burning sensation the disease caused and “holy” because it came to seen a...
Maillard Reactions: How Low Can They Go? 23 Aug 2013 | 07:00 am
Reader Choi asks: Joe, I understand that the browning of pumpernickel in the oven is caused by the Maillard reaction. It is my understanding that Maillard reactions only happen over 300 degrees Fahre...
Really, REALLY Bad Acid 23 Aug 2013 | 02:25 am
Now I know there are certain types of readers out there — mostly musicians — who rather enjoy the thought of a dose of LSD with their morning toast. But let's be clear here: ergot-derived lysergic aci...
Rye: Quite Possibly the World’s Most Dangerous Grain 23 Aug 2013 | 02:05 am
Why? Because of its high susceptibility to infection by a fungus by the name of Claviceps purpurea, otherwise known as ergot. It might not sound terribly dangerous, but trust me, ergot is no ordinary ...
Wet Starters, Dry Starters 22 Aug 2013 | 03:57 pm
Reader Kevin had a fascinating question. He writes: Your rye starter is a little drier that some I've seen. Is there are reason why some starter formulas have more or less water? Does it change the f...
Embrace The Goo 22 Aug 2013 | 01:14 am
A couple of astute readers out there noticed something about the black bread (pumpernickel) recipe. Specifically that after the initial "soaking" step, no more liquid is added. Can that be right? Inde...
Dark Matter 21 Aug 2013 | 06:51 pm
Pumpernickel is deep, dense stuff. Over 300% as dense as a sturdy white loaf. This is due to certain botanical differences between rye and wheat. The gluten in wheat is composed of two types of protei...